Dr T, MGG and I have just returned from a week in Mallorca. The quiet part, as I hastened to tell people. Which is a bit unfair to Mallorca, as the majority of the island is beautiful and bears no resemblance to Magalluf. As you would expect, we did a fair bit of eating. Not the Michelin starred type of eating, although this is entirely possible for a whole week in Mallorca, as there are a large number of places with stars. No, this was much more down to earth, good food, good atmospheres, and keeping all the family happy. Here’s a few highlights:

Pan fried salmon with cumin

A not very Mallorcan dish to start, and not a very Mallorcan place to eat. In fact, my foodie heart sank slightly at the sight of the Scottish brunch on the menu. But La Font del Gall in Pollença is about good food, not just catering to Scots abroad. The Scottish brunch was followed on the menu by a salmon brunch, and a very decent menu of the day. A little off the main drag, but worth finding on Calle Montesion.

Hake served with taste and a view

Sometimes, simple is best, and this is the fresh hake and chips at Balada del Agua del Mar in Port de Pollença. Sit outside, under the fig tree, enjoy the view and some good simple cooking. The plate of Mallorcan cheeses with crudites made a great starter too.

Table with a view

Of course, you don’t go on holiday somewhere like this for rain, but on Easter Sunday I was grateful for it. If it had been dry, we might have got out and walked round Porto Christo to find lunch. Which means we’d have missed a great lunch in Porto Colom. We chose the place that was busiest, filled with Mallorcan families (18 at one table, with about 4 generations) and were richly rewarded:

Dates wrapped in bacon. Bliss

Peppers stuffed with tuna

Squid, simple

Not only did we get a great lunch, but the rain went away and the sun came out. An Easter miracle indeed.

You  may find yourself praying for miracles and deliverance if you take the mountain roads up to Soller (or cheat and pay the toll to go through the tunnel). Worth it though, as Soller is beautiful, and the train journey down to Palma and back is atmospheric and memorable. It’s worth seeking out the bakers further away from the station, which is not as fancy but equally not as pricey. Both will provide you with good picnic goods though, with empanadas and different kinds or pies and pastries.

Perfect picnic for a train ride through the orange groves

Pies, Mallorcan style

Marzipan mountains and chocolate goodies

Of course, it wouldn’t be right to be somewhere like this without tapas. We had a chaotic tapas lunch at a place in Palma, that involved ordering twice, getting the bill for someone else’s table, no drinks arriving for ages…but pretty tasty fare being delivered.

Tapas, eventually

But like many memorable meals, it can be as much about the company you keep as the food you eat. We had a great tapas lunch, overlooking the sea in Port de Pollença with a family we had a met. It’s not often you sit down with a Falkland Islander and a recreational lobster pot man, a former air hostess and family, but we did and 18 different dishes arrived, most of which swiftly disappeared. Along with the wine.

Tapas by the sea

So, this wasn’t lunch at Son Brull’s restaurant, but it was memorable, tasty and fabulous. We weren’t ensconced in luxury at Reads Hotel, but if you’re travelling with kids under about 12, or are keen cyclists, then the Pollentia Club Resort is a great base. Although I think their chefs might need more to do…

When chefs have too much time on their hands

Needless to say, didn’t eat the cheese off the buffet next day!

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Everything but the squeal!

As you may know by now, we’re away for Easter and no, my housesitters don’t extend their duties to blog sitting! One of my favourite pre-holiday preparations is choosing my holiday reading. I always try to have at least one book based in the country or culture I’m visiting, as it adds something in my view if you’re reading it in situ. And, of course, I like it to have a fairly strong food content. So here are a few of my favourites, or hopefully soon to be favourites!

1. Everything But the Squeal – this is my choice for this trip, although it’s a bit of a cheat as we’ll be in Majorca and it’s based in Northern Spain. In fact, I should have had this for our honeymoon, which was all over Northern Spain and did involve a lot of pig derived eating. A very under-rated part of Spain, but this book promises to bring it to life, from both a cultural and a food perspective.

2. Eat My Globe: One Man’s Search for the Best Food in the World – if, by any remote chance, your destination doesn’t have a suitable book written about it, then I would add Simon Majumdar’s book to your suitcase. By the end, you may come to the same conclusion, that Simon has eaten stuff so you never have to. Honestly, I don’t need to eat dog. But do share his admiration for Mrs King’s pork pies. A great read, highly recommend it.

3. Hokkaido Highway Blues – I’ve been really lucky to have several trips to Tokyo with my work, and this has come with me each time. Whilst it’s based in places I haven’t got to, the culture it describes is familiar, and alien in the way that Japan gets you. Although this is a bit of a road book, being Japan eating also figures high up on the agenda. Not to mention drinking!

4. Confessions of a French Baker: Breadmaking Secrets, Tips and Recipes – not the obvious book by Peter Mayle, but I really love this little tome. Great stories, and great recipes, it really gives you a sense of the work behind your morning croissant or batard. It’s fluffy and not a difficult read, but really enjoyable.

5. Adventures on the High Teas: In Search of Middle England – if you’re having a staycation, then Stuart Maconie’s book is a great one to have along for the ride. There are so many laugh out loud moments, and I hadn’t really appreciated from listening to him on the radio that he was a bit of a foodie. Everywhere he visits is measured by its tea rooms and local delicacies. If you’re staying in the North, then buy Pies and Prejudice. Or just go mad and buy both.

So, I’m hoping to have made my way through number 1 some time very soon, and will be working up to some new ones for France and Cyprus later in the year. Although nothing could possibly possess me to reread The Olive Farm, or anything that followed it.

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Beetroot Relish from Jamie Oliver

You’ve been making a list, checking it twice, you’ve worked out what’s naughty and what’s nice. And now you’re having a sudden panic as you’ve counted up the presents and you’ve forgotten someone! If it’s a foodie gift you’ve forgotten, then never fear! Here’s some last minute suggestions you can still order in, so no need to brave the High Street just yet.

1. Jamie Oliver has some great stuff, without his face on it, that I think makes a great standby foodie present. There are good preserves and oils and, lets face it, you’re going to trust these more than some awful flavoured collection from the corner shop. A duo of beetroot relish and red onion pickle, wrapped in a funky teatowel, or a mixing bowl, would make a brilliant gift. Or I suppose I should have said a pukka present. Order by Thursday this week to guarantee pre Christmas delivery, and benefit from free delivery. Perfect!

2. Treat them to a different foodie day. All of the major experience companies offer very interesting days, and most still seem to be guaranteeing pre Christmas delivery. From Virgin, you could buy the Cupcake & Cocktails Experience, or learn some new dishes at the Novelli academy or spend a day cooking fish with Keith Burke. Not quite doing it for your foodie? Try Red Letter Days or Buy A Gift or check out the fantastic courses for real artisanal food at The School of Artisan Food, from patisserie through to wild yeast baking.

3. Heal’s have some great foodie gifts, and you’ve got through till midnight this Sunday to order from them. Truly a

Love it or loathe it, it's a great gift

present of love if you hate the stuff, but if your foodie loves the stuff, then they have a great Marmite gift. I’ve featured the pate gifts before, and you’ve got a choice of game, meat or fish, so something for everyone. There’s some cool stuff in their barware section, like the Beer Cooler Zinc Tub, ideal for the beer and party loving foodie. Looking forward to warmer days ahead, then I like the Metrokane Wine to Go Neoprene Carrier, perfect for picnics.

4. For the serious foodie with expensive tastes, then London Fine Foods is perfect hunting ground for great gifts. They have everything from Beluga Caviar to White Truffles, milk fed Pyrenne’s lamb and fabulous Jamon Iberico de Bellota. There are gift boxes on offer or, if the choice is too much, gift vouchers! The provenance and quality will make any foodie’s Christmas morning!

5. For your pick of great foodie presents, it’s also still not too late to order from Natoora. For most of the UK, orders can go through up until 22nd December, some parts of London are the 23rd. There are beautiful boxes of macaroons (watch this space, I say 2010 will be the year of the macaroon) and panettone, and if the choice is too much there are some great hampers already put together. Check out the Pure Indulgence and Great British Christmas versions.

That should keep the foodies very happy with their presents come Christmas morning, and should keep you happy by shopping from the comfort of your own chair!

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If you spot a quince, grab it!

I had moments of pure envy this week! Thomasina Miers was tweeting that she was experimenting with quince, poaching them with vanilla pods, and then making them into a custard. Which all sounded delicious, but there’s been no sniff of a quince around here yet!

And I have such a hankering to try to make quince cheese, that Spanish delicacy known as membrillo, as there’s a piece of Manchego just winged its way into the fridge direct from Best Foodie Friend’s recent trip to Spain. I’ve never tried making it before, but have tucked into it quite a few times (a particularly good example served up at Iberico in Nottingham, always worth a lunch stop).

If I spot some, then I am buying as many as I can afford as soon as I see them. And I’m inspired by the quince jelly recipe over on The Cottage Smallholder. If you want something different, then have a try of some of the quince recipes over on Historic Food, or just read them as it’s fascinating!

Supply of quinces seems to be a bit hit and miss though, so the only way to really be guaranteed a crop each season is either adopt someone with a tree, or grow one yourself. Trees Online have a number of varieties on offer and not knowing anything else about them I would start with a Champion Quince Tree. Although may just find it has a high opinion of itself!

This option would mean a very long wait for Membrillo though, so I am tempted to order some from Bellota at Food Full Stop. If it’s for someone else, you could go the full hog (no pun intended) and order their gourmet selection which includes a whole host of other goodies such as Jamón de Trevélez, Salchichon Ibérico and Chorizo Ibérico, as well as the membrillo.

Quince photo by erix! on Flickr.

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A little plate of Turkish delights

I was in London on Tuesday with MGG, an end of school holiday treat (for her, allegedly). And being MGG, it meant a good lunch. Her normal choice is Chinese somewhere in Chinatown, but as we were visiting Buckingham Palace that felt like a bit of a trek. Checking in with the Best Foodie Friend, she recommended Shepherd Market.

I looked at her blankly.

Hard to believe, but I spent two years living in London, practically going past this every day. I’ve stayed in a hotel at the top of the street. I’ve been in London a day a week of the past 10 years. Yet like Diagon Alley this has been hidden from view. But what a find!

We lunched on a meze selection plus a few extra bits at Sofra. A lot of the Med meet Arabic cuisines are perfect for kids in my view, particularly a meze where they can try a little of lots of different tastes. We had the small mix plate – hummus, falafel, spinach & feta filo parcels, mujver and kasir. Added to this was Sucuk, the spicy sausage which was not a hit with MGG but at least she tried. We did love Icli Kofte, a very different use of bulgur wheat.

But it wasn’t just the food that I loved. It was that all I could really hear was the buzz of happy eating. Not the sounds of central London. I’d really recommend getting in there and having an explore. I thought the menus at The Little Square and Le Boudin Blanc both sounded really good, and there were some good set lunch options.

Icli Kofte

Every city tends to have a hidden gem or two of an area, or even just a gem of restaurant that’s just that one or two turnings off the main drag, two minutes from Costa or Starbucks. From my years living in Bristol, I practically lived in the Primrose Cafe, right down the end of Boyces Avenue. I’ve not been for years, but looking at their website, the food still sounds great. Although bring your own seems to have disappeared now! It’s a great choice if you can’t get into the nearby, often featured, Albion.

In Bath, keep heading uphill, but veer away from the Royal Crescent and try Same Same But Different. Up a little side street, this is like the Primrose, in that it’s a cafe that transforms into a restaurant. A good mix of cuisines but with a Spanish slant. Great wine list too!

So, even if you think you really know an area, it’s worth tracking down somewhere a little different. And with the Internet nothing is hidden for too long! And if you do a lot of travelling on the motorway, then I really do recommend having a copy of Breaks Near the Motorwayor something similar. You’ll be amazed what’s just round the corner from the Moto!

Happy hunting!

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Chuck a tom today

Oh yes, today you could throw tomatoes with impunity, in the right place. First held in 1932 La Tomatina Tomato Throwing Festival takes place today, so I would think your chances of attending are a little slim. If you want to get sorted for next year, it’s the last Wednesday in August.

You could cook up a great tomato sauce to celebrate. like Jamie’s really quick tomato sauce. There are gluts of veg going around, so if you don’t have your own toms, then I bet someone around you does!

But if you want to head to Spain, and see if they’ve got rid of the tomato stains, then you need to head for Valencia, as it’s the nearest place to Buñol. Valencia is one of those places that doesn’t seem to really be on the UK tourist trail for Spain, which is shame as it’s a great looking city, and the third biggest after Madrid and Barcelona.

Which means it’s going to have some decent restaurants. Ca Sento is currently reckoned to be the best on offer, a mother and son combination that delivers traditional and modern dishes from the region. This is one of Spain’s top restaurants, so you’re going to need to book. No word on what they do with tomatoes though.

If I was heading somewhere in Spain I didn’t know, then my first choice for hotel and first night eating would probably be the local Parador. If we had government run hotels here, I think we can all take a guess what they might be like. Paradors, on the other hand, have combinations of great accommodation and great cooking, based on the locality and what’s in season.

The Parador near Valencia is a modern one, so you’re not staying here for what it looks like, but the location looks amazing, with it being on the coast. They make paella, as well as other rice dishes from the area, and you can always work it off, gently, on the golf course. Or relax in it’s spa whilst you recount the calories!

You could tour the Parador’s and indulge in amazing buildings and great food around the whole country. We did this on our honeymoon, and I can highly recommend heading to Leon, Sos Del Rey Catolico, and Olite. All of these are beautiful buildings, they are connected to great wine regions (particularly loved Olite in the Navarra region for the wine selection from Ochoa at dinner).

So, if you need a special trip without going to the ends of the earth, then look to Spain, but not the usual suspects! Then look forward to ham, more ham, sherry, tapas, churros, late nights and great eating. Nothing at all like La Tasca!

Photo by Dahon

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